TEXT: Borut Omerzel, Playboy Slovenia

Boutique Pearl of Bohinj

History testifies to the fact that in addition to a favorable natural location or timeless beauty, exceptional individuals are very often key to the development and prosperity of not only entire countries, but also smaller places, who with their bold decisions and bold work lay solid foundations for life. future generations. This also applies to the Bohinj end. 130 years ago, one such man was the successful timber merchant and businessman Janez Markeš, who had many estates and agricultural land, and in Bohinjska Bistrica on the river Belca he also had a wood sawmill and the first power plant, and in Srednja vas his mill. Wealthy as he was, he built one of the first Bohinj hotels in Bohinjska Bistrica in 1890 in a visionary and perhaps following the example of the development of Bled tourism and named it after his family.

Importance of transport connection

Tourism in Bled was already flourishing at that time, especially thanks to Arnold Rikli, a pioneer of Bled tourism, and it flourished even more when the Ljubljana-Tarvisio railway was built in 1870. How important they are for the development of modern transport connections has been shown. also in the Bohinj area, when they began to build another railway connection between the capital and the then very important port in the north of the Adriatic. As Tomaž Budkovič wrote in his book, soon after the first railway connection between Vienna and Trieste (Southern Railway) was built in the middle of the 19th century, the Vienna court began to think about a new connection that would connect Trieste with Central Europe. It was only after more than 30 years of decision-making that they decided on the Karavanke-Bohinj route at the end of the 19th century, because it proved to be the most economically and strategically advantageous. In 1901, the Vienna parliament passed the law on the Transalpine, the connection between Bohemia and Trieste, and its final section between Jesenice and Trieste was named the Bohinj line. To break through to the Gorizia side, they also had to break through the mountains of the Bohinj railway tunnel, which today is a good 6327 meters long (World War II shortened it by a good 12 meters), the construction of which began in September 1900 and ended in 1906. when the Austro-Hungarian heir to the throne Franc Ferdinand himself came to the opening with members of the royal family.

Construction of the Bohinj tunnel

The hero of our story, the then Hotel Markeš, built the tunnel well, as it housed many senior officials and engineers and eminent doctors, and the owner allegedly earned it very well by selling the electricity produced, which was needed for drilling. part of the tunnel. But after its opening, as the Slovenec newspaper wrote, most of the workers left Bohinjska Bistrica and the hustle and bustle died down. “But only for a short time. Soon after the opening of the new railway, which was praised in the monarchy and perfectly presented in various tourist publications, "the Slovene writes," crowds of beauties eager for tourists began to come to the beautiful Bohinj region, both from the interior and from Goriška and Trieste. In 1907, Bohinj entered a new period of promising tourist development. ”And with it the Hotel Markeš. Well known and written in books, writes the Sunrose 7 blog, it is also the story of a truly exceptional hotel offer for those times. In November 1907, a famous doctor brought his newlywed to the hotel on his (first) wedding night. He booked accommodation that back in 1907 overcame a heated bathroom! This was not only exceptional for the alpine area of ​​Slovenia, but also for the wider area. There were even so many lovers of Bohinj nature that the so-called foreign rooms began to bloom there (one of them was made in memory of the times in cooperation with the Bohinj municipality and Lipa Bohinj in the modern Bohinj Eco Hotel, which today stands on the site of the Grand Hotel Triglav and just a stone's throw from the former Hotel Markeš, today's Sunrose 7). Markeš's hotel prospered until the First World War, where social events took place all the time, with a lot of dancing and especially drinking, as they served a variety of spirits and beers, and people enjoyed musical evenings.

Chestnut avenue

Not to forget, an important acquisition for the place during the construction of the tunnel was also the planting of a chestnut avenue, along the new road that led from the railway station to the growing and developing village of Bohinjska Bistrica. Today it is Triglavska cesta, where the boutique hotel Sunrose 7 stands with house number 7. Even today, the chestnuts growing on the Belca embankment are protected as natural heritage, and here, in the pleasant shade of century-old trees, is the famous Kavarna pod kostanji garden.

The rise and fall of the hotel in Bohinj

But let's go back in time. Hotel Markeš prospered well until the First World War, when Bohinj became the hinterland of the Isonzo Front and when, with the arrival of the military apparatus, previously rapidly advancing tourism began to decline rapidly. Markeš had no sons, reports the Sunrose 7 blog, so he married all three daughters before the war. But all three soon fell in the war and had to provide for widows and many grandchildren. With the decline of tourism, the material situation significantly deteriorated and severe famine ensued. In addition to bread cards, the state also introduced sugar and fat cards. In this distress, parts of the hotel basement served to hide food as well as weapons. Towards the end of the war, the owner also died. With the Treaty of Rapallo in 1920, the fate of the hotel was even more grim. The border was drawn along the peaks of the lower Bohinj mountains, and so Bohinj once again became a border area under strict control. There were no tourists, life was hard. There was a severe famine. During this period, the Belce watercourse, which flows next to the hotel, was arranged. Due to the severe shortage, the workers accepted payment in grain and corn, and in this way the entire remediation, which has its present form, was financed. The hotel lived relentlessly and fell into disrepair. In 1931, Markeš's widow found a man and ran a hotel with her new partner. They improved the quality of services, invested in renovations and improved inventory and interior decoration. With a lot of effort and extreme financial effort, they somehow succeeded and slowly, very slowly, the hotel and the inn began to pick up. Guests, even foreigners, came again. When, after almost two decades of garage work, it already seemed that the hotel or inn would finally come to life again, the world was once again engulfed in the whirlwind of war, which spared no one.

The second half of the 20th century

After World War II, the people's government expelled Markeš's widow and her new partner, and confiscated the hotel. For a short period after the Second World War, the then military dignitaries and officials also gathered in the hotel, especially in the company of young women. In 1967, Hotel Markeš was renamed the Črna prst inn, after which most locals and visitors to Bohinj know the building. In doing so, they tried to take him on the path of past fame and prestige that the facility enjoyed until the beginning of the war - as an exceptional hotel with a soul. Črna prst had a period of rise and success: it was famous as a good inn, which was extremely popular with the locals and visitors to Bohinj. At the time when the Kobla ski resort was still operating, the inn was packed even in winter. But the facility never reached its former glory and slowly died out with dormant tourist development, decaying for the last 20 or more years. As it is written on the Sunrose 7 blog, where you can also see historical photos, the property was then (re) sold by various speculators. For the most part, the common denominator was the desire to redecorate it and rent out the apartments to tourists, or to sell the fragmented unit to the final owners, as is the already established modus operandi in Bohinj. In this way, the black finger spoiled the image of the place for decades and made sure that Markeš turned in his grave, while tourists turned in front of the abandoned building, where slot machines, billiards and a space for making love also operated for a short time.

A turning point in the 21st century

The credit for the fact that the story has been preserved (and upgraded), the Sunrose 7 blog points out, goes to the Municipality of Bohinj and the adopted OPPN, in which they insisted and forbade a change of use - that the building built in 1890, protected as a heritage by ZVKDS its form, appearance and also content. Then it would almost happen that the building would be (resold) again in the interim ten-year period, but fortunately it got stuck this time as well, albeit after the already indicated arena. They wanted to build apartments for the market again, although for the same reason the projects, or rather the wishes of investors, have stopped so many times. At the beginning of the article, we wrote that exceptional individuals are often key to development and prosperity - and according to Markeš in 1890, who built a hotel on this site, Anže Čokl was responsible for the preservation and restoration of this historic building in 2018. In just nine months and nine days, the new-old boutique hotel Sunrose 7 was born, the third member of the 2864 family after the Bohinj Eco Hotel and the water park next to it. As our hall manager Manca Arh told us when we visited the new nice hotel, they chose the name of the hotel thoughtfully. So that it can also be remembered by foreigners and that it is connected to the local environment and history. Above Bohinjska Bistrica there is an alpine botanical garden on Črna prsta, in which a yellow alpine popon or sunflower, also called sunrose in English, grows. The fairytale number seven is added to the name because of the beautiful circular hiking trail, which leads from this botanical garden over the seven main peaks of the ridge, then through the Triglav seven lakes to the top of Triglav and then to the café Pod kostanji at Triglavska cesta 7. in the sun as at night in the glow of light the sun shines golden.

Outstanding hotel Sunrose 7

The boutique hotel Sunrose 7, a completely reconstructed and upgraded three-storey Austro-Hungarian villa, is not only proud of the fact that during construction or renovation they complied with all regulations required when it comes to cultural heritage (preserved facades and basic building volumes and restored building and decorative elements from that time), thus complementing the 130-year-old legacy with a modern touch, but also by installing the latest systems that enable environmentally friendly operation. The garden is irrigated with a drip tray, a heat pump takes care of heating and cooling, and both fireplace stoves have a hot water exchanger for heating the building. The design of the entire reconstruction of the building is the work of architect Edvard Mandić from the Ljubljana office Arcus, who also took care of part of the interior in the rooms of modern, ie upgraded work, while the rest of the interior, including the lobby, was taken care of by Corbie Phillips. She worked closely with the project manager Anžet Čokl, which is also reflected in the introduction of design elements from the local environment, and solid furniture in Slovenia is made of Slovenian wood. Particularly impressive is the facade of the building itself, which even at night feels like entering a fairytale villa. Above the entrance is the only balcony where it is worth attacking the eyes on the restored hand-wrought iron fence with ornaments. It was made more than a century ago by a blacksmith from Bohinj, and the renovation was entrusted to one of the local masters of this craft.

Upon entering the hotel, you are warmly welcomed by the open space. To the right of the entrance is where once was the hunting room, an extremely pleasant and comfortable salon book corner with a fireplace. To the left of the entrance is a cozy lobby with a small reception desk and opposite it is a café bar. Ahead of the reception desk, the view is first drawn to the hand-forged brass chandeliers, which seem to climb high all the way to the sky. Of course, since the floor is six meters high and, in addition to chandeliers, it is marked by a massive wooden dining room structure and a glass wall that extends from ceiling to floor and allows eyes to rest in view of the river and more than a thousand square meters garden an outdoor fireplace, flower beds for home condiments and a hotel for insects. Under the canopy of a protected century-old chestnut avenue, the traditional Kavarna pod kastanji hosts both hotel guests and locals, of course only adults, so that one can also relax from the children's excitement. Both the café and the hotel are for adults only; also because under the same roof 2864 is the nearby Eco hotel, which is more family-oriented. It has been shown that people want this concept to be loved even without children, no matter how much they love them. The hotel has 18 designer rooms and suites, which are in the old and new part. All of them are equipped with solid wood, have underfloor and wall heating and individual cooling, and are divided into four categories, according to size, equipment and where the view from them is directed. The rooms are also different within the same category, as some are in the older part and others in the newer part of the hotel. Those in the newer part have large niches that allow nature to be reflected in the room, which also means that there is a lot of natural light in them. In addition, the rooms are also differently, uniquely furnished.

The suite of the highest category is called the Royal Hug or Royal Embrace, of course in honor of Franz Ferdinand. The suite, which faces the garden, is in the old part of the hotel and is architecturally marked by a beautiful niche, while the furniture is made of Slovenian oak wood (elsewhere it is made of Slovenian spruce). The only one in the hotel and also in Slovenia has an adventure shower with multisensory water effects, which was named Savica waterfall. Of course, because it’s like showering under a waterfall. The second category of Chestnut Embrace is named after the chestnuts and the rooms overlook the park. The only room of the same category has a balcony above the entrance to the building and an already admired original balcony railing. The third category is River Melodies, as the rooms face the river, and the fourth is the Town Classics overlooking the city. All bathrooms are modernly designed, and guests have access to certified organic cosmetics and towels, coats and other hotel linen made from eco-friendly cotton. We also like the fact that there is no TV or refrigerator in the rooms, as there is no unnecessary noise and no distraction from ourselves or our companion. Television, telephones and other digital (multi) media devices are not available in the entire hotel, which is called digital detoxification and is recommended for socializing, reading books and listening to the nearby nature, learning about local cuisine and experiential experiences in beautiful surroundings.

Varied cuisine in Bohinj

In addition to excellent house pies and traditional cakes, the hotel itself serves original breakfasts to satisfy hunger, at which Barbara watches: "Breakfast at our boutique hotel Sunrose 7 is not only the most important meal of the day, but a unique culinary experience!" the fact that breakfast consists of food from local providers, and the inspiration for them comes from the rich natural and cultural heritage of Bohinj. This was also recognized by others and Sunrose 7 received a special award for these breakfasts this year - the Bohinj certificate.

»This is the second important award for Sunrose 7, which opened its doors last September, after the December Travelife Gold International Sustainability Certificate," explains Manca, and Barbara concludes: "The Bohinj Certificate is an important recognition for us that we are on the right track in offering exceptional, authentic culinary experiences. It provides originality with a geographical origin. All products and services are certified according to strict standards and criteria with respect to traditional values, local raw materials, crops and ingredients. The Bohinj Tourism Quality Center oversees the development and image of certified products and provides ongoing professional assistance and support to local entrepreneurial initiatives. Let me emphasize that our original, healthy and delicious breakfasts are also available to external guests, just order one day in advance by phone or e-mail. We offer four types of breakfast, and guests love the one whose main part is smoked trout in addition to local cheeses. These indigenous lake trout, as well as goldfish, are farmed in the small family farm Zupan in nearby Nomenj. They are also famous for their trout caviar. ”What about coffee, oh, Barbara? “The first morning must be like a man. Hot, strong and sweet, ”he laughs and immediately serves a cup of espresso. He's great! “Yes, we have Barcaffe’s super premium espresso blend Divino, which is made from 100% Arabica coffee from Central and South America and Africa. All the grains are carefully read and then roasted to conjure a symphony of flavors with a hint of jasmine and citrus with a distinctive aftertaste of spruce tops and noble spices. The bar is open daily until 10 pm for hotel guests, for outdoor guests until 9 pm. There are cocktails prepared from an exceptional range of spirits and a great deal of creativity. Desserts are also completely unique (not only in the hotel, but also in Bohinj), as they are made with yeast.

But where should a guest go to eat later, even if breakfast is superbly invigorating? The hotel will enrich the culinary offer in its style with dinners in the pre-summer period, when the sunlit terrace by the river will also become a place to delight the palate. “Our guests are also warmly invited to go for lunch or dinner at the hotel’s restaurant 2864, which is located in the nearby Eco Hotel. They have a buffet or seasonal a la carte offer, which boasts a large part of local seasonal ingredients, so that they adapt the offer to the seasons. The venison is also excellent, I especially recommend the deer, ”says Barbara. »We would like to recommend the family inn and boarding house Resje to Nemški Rovt. It is about a 20-minute leisurely walk uphill. The inn, which was taken over by Joža Zabregar a few years ago, has a homely ambience and excellent local food, which is very nicely presented. Then, near the hotel, there is the Štrudl inn, a mountain hut in the valley, where you can get simple traditional dishes such as Bohinj mash from the indigenous variety of Bohinj corn (Turkish) with sour milk, potatoes in curd form and homemade cheeses and meats. And for dessert, of course, a delicious strudel. A very important acquisition for the whole of Bohinj is the fine dining restaurant Triglav, which opened its doors under the leadership of the young chef Luka Zagorec last summer in Stara Fužina (www.gostilna-triglav.si), "concluded the presentation of the offer by Barbara and Manca. Anže Čokl, who is also the manager of the nearby Eco Hotel Bohinj, put an end to it: “Once sleepy Bohinj is waking up and we can be extremely happy that today this former drowsiness makes it different, calmer and that it has huge potential for development less mass, authentic tourism with a story and with higher added value. The Travelife Gold Certificate is a confirmation of our efforts for a better tomorrow in the field of tourism, and our commitment to more environmentally friendly accommodation has always been part of our values. " We recommend Hotel Sunrose 7 if you visit it only for breakfast or a cake with a great coffee, or if you can afford at least a weekend getaway and also take advantage of the nearby water park and the exclusive hotel wellness in the Bohinj ECO Hotel.

Wine shop

In the basement they made a very nice wine shop with a special corner for selected spirits. Pet sommelier Uroš Lukša carefully selected 77 wine labels, most of which are Slovenian. Immediately after entering the wine shop, we saw Gravner's bottles on the left, then Erzetič's, Gavbej's, Bagueri's bottles from Movie, Čotar, Cola, Štoka and from the Ptuj cellar. We admit that we were especially pleased that Sturm's chardonnay and Rhine Riesling are also among the two fairytale weeks. And Batič's ice wine Valentino of intense and deep amber color. As well as the red Monterosso from Crveni Vrh near Savudrija. We believe that some foreign guests here in Bohinjska Bistrica are enthusiastic about Slovenian wines and also set out from Bohinj to explore the Karst, Vipava and Brda. If not, guided tastings are available here. As said, they also have spirits. In addition to the classic ones, they also have homemade plum brandy, the taste of which is the work of bartender Barbara, and in addition to some Slovenian ones, the Japanese one especially caught our eye.